If this is happening in autumn or early winter, there's a good chance your chickens are moulting.
Moulting is a completely natural part of their annual cycle.
Quick insights from this article: especially helpful if you're wondering whether your chicken is moulting, how long it will last, or what you can do to help.
What is moulting and what happens?
If you have dogs, you'll know all about moulting. It's very much the same with chickens: old feathers are shed and replaced with new plumage.
It's an entirely natural process which affects both hens and roosters. Adult chickens typically moult once a year, as the days shorten in late summer or autumn.
Changes in the length of daylight hours play an important part in triggering the hormones which in turn let the chicken know it's time to replace old, worn feathers with bright new ones.
Feather loss often begins at the head and neck before progressing across the body, wings and tail. Not every chicken follows the same pattern, though, and some look much more bedraggled than others.
It can be quite alarming the first time you see it, particularly if your previously stunning hen suddenly looks as though she's about to fall apart.
But the normal annual moult is really nothing to worry about, and there are things we can do to support our flock while their new feathers grow.
As the moult begins, you may notice that plumage looks dull and generally untidy. You're also likely to see...
๐ฅ A note from my flock: this is one of my beautiful Wyandotte hens, Miss Daisy, going through her annual moult. She looks decidedly sorry for herself, and as you can see has completely lost her tail!
But this kind of raggedy appearance is perfectly normal, and Daisy took her rightful place as Queen of the Flock again within a couple of months.

Chickens are not machines! So they don't all moult to the same time schedule. Even birds in the same flock may start and finish at quite different times.
A complete natural moult can take several months, although the most dramatic period of feather loss may be much shorter. In my experience, some chickens get through it quite quickly while others replace their plumage much more slowly.
So don't worry just because one chicken is taking longer than another. the important thing is that new feathers are starting to appear, and that she otherwise seems healthy.
New pin feathers growing on one of my Wyandotte hens during her moult. These are the beginnings of her new plumage.Shedding feathers as part of a normal moult should not be painful. but growing the replacement feathers can make chickens uncomfortable, and sensitive to touch.
That's because new feathers begin life as "pin feathers", also sometimes called "blood feathers". At this stage, the developing feather has a blood supply running through its shaft.
As those pin feathers start to emerge, your chicken will begin to look a bit like a porcupine. They're sensitive at this stage, so avoid unnecessary handling. If you do need to pick up a moulting chicken, handle her very gently and put as little pressure on the emerging feathers as possible.
This is a photo of another of my Wyandotte hens as she began growing back her feathering. You can see how dark the short "pin" or "blood" feathers are.
Pin feathers starting to grow on one of my hens - they're dark because they're full of blood.As the feather matures, the blood supply recedes and the protective sheath around it gradually flakes away.
Use your judgement to decide whether a hen may be more sensitive to handling than usual.
๐ฅ A note from my flock: this is one of my Speckled Sussex hens during her moult. Her back looked very red and sore as the new feathers began growing through.
At this stage I wouldn't have picked her up unless I really needed to. Even if a moulting chicken looks perfectly healthy otherwise, all those developing feathers can make her skin very sensitive to touch.

Because those emerging pin feathers contain blood, if they are damaged or broken they can bleed, sometimes more than you might expect.
If you notice blood, check the chicken carefully to find where it's coming from. Blood and damaged skin can attract pecking from other chickens, so it's important to prevent the injury from becoming worse.
For minor superficial bleeding, just clean the area and keep a close eye on it. If other chickens continue to peck, separate the injured bird temporarily so that she can still see and hear the flock while the injury heals. A dog crate is a good solution here.
If the bleeding is persistent or heavy, or the feather looks badly damaged, contact your veterinarian for advice.
If you've previously clipped a chicken's wings to prevent her from flying into danger, remember that those clipped feathers will grow back during a subsequent moult.
Once the new feathers grow in she'll have a full set again, and may regain the flying you were trying to restrict.
If your chicken likes flying, wing feathers will need clipping again when they've grown back after the moult.Once the new feathers have grown, reassess the situation. Is this still a chicken who is likely to fly somewhere unsafe?
If not, there's no reason to clip the new feathers. If wing clipping is still necessary for her safety, you will need to clip them again.
Never clip a developing pin or blood feather. While the feather is growing, cutting its active blood supply can cause pain and significant bleeding. Wait until the flight feathers are fully mature before considering clipping.
Egg production usually drops significantly during the moult. Many hens stop laying altogether.
But that's not an absolute rule. Some hens may continue to lay an occasional egg (my Red Stars usually did) but a drop in egg numbers is complewtely normal during the moulting process.
Once the moult is complete laying may pick up again, although shortening daylight hours can mean some hens don't return to laying until the days begin to lengthen again.
Growing a new set of feathers places extra nutritional demands on a chicken. Feathers are made mostly from Keratin, a protein, so a supply of high quality protein is particularly important during the moult.
But the best place to start is not with lots of high protein treats! Instead, a good quality, nutritionally balanced chicken feed should be the main part of their diet throughout the moult.
I do also give my flock some protein-rich foods, but in moderation. It adds a bit of variety to their diet as well as some extra protein while they grow their new plumage.
Always remember, though, that treats should never replace the balanced feed chickens need.
Good quality sources of protein include...
For more high protein foods that are good for your flock, see this article.
My high protein recipe always goes down well with my flock at times of stress.Good nutrition isn't the only thing that matters during the moult. Make sure your flock always has easy access to plenty of clean, fresh water.
Check waterers regularly and keep them clean. A moulting chicken doesn't need special additives in her water simply because she's moulting. Fresh, clean water is what matters most.
Moulting is a natural process, and most chickens will get through it without any special treatment. But there are a few simple things you can do to make life a little easier while those new feathers grow.
A bedraggled, moulting chicken may look as though she needs a cute little knitted jumper to keep her warm but please, resist the temptation.
Clothing can rub against sensitive developing pin feathers, causing discomfort and potentially damaging them.
A healthy moulting chicken needs good shelter from bad weather, not a sweater!
A lot of "facts" you'll find on the internet are often people's individual views, based on inaccurate information repeated from poor quality sources.
The information I provide in this article and others is based not just on my own experience, but on evidenced facts from scientific, peer-reviewed research and books from highly respected and experienced poultry keepers such as Gail Damerow.
Some of the trusted sources I have used in this article are these.
1. Mingke, Y, et al: The developmental biology of feather follicles. Pub. Department of Pathology, Cell and Neurobiology, University of Southern California.
2. Andrews, D.K., et al: "Effect of Lighting Program and Nutrition on Feather Replacement of Molted Single Comb White Leghorn Hens". Pub. Journal of Poultry Science, 1987.
3. Hoshino, S, et al: Changes in thyroxine and triiodothyronine during spontaneous molt in the hen, Gallus domesticus. Pub. Journal of Comparative Biochemistry and Physiology, 1988.