Cold, damp weather often keeps flocks confined for longer than usual, and by now many hens have slowed down or stopped laying altogether.
Muddy runs, wet bedding, boredom, and low energy can all start to take their toll, both on chicken health and on our own morale.
This month's focus is on getting through the tail end of winter comfortably and calmly. The tasks below are designed to help keep your flock occupied, dry, and healthy, while also laying a little groundwork for the spring ahead.
Below you’ll find 20 practical February tasks (which are also the basis of this month’s downloadable checklist) to help you support your chickens through this often awkward, in-between season.
Please note: This is written with the northern hemisphere in mind. If you're in the southern hemisphere and dealing with the heat of late summer instead, you'll find more relevant guidance here.
Are you in my newsletter group? If so, you'll be able to download your handy downloadable checklist for this month's tasks from the newsletter digest which comes to you in the first week of each month.
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Healthy, contented chickens are chickens who stay busy.
In better weather, that happens naturally by foraging, scratching through leaves, dust bathing, turning compost heaps, and free-ranging where possible. By February, though, many flocks have spent weeks or even months with limited access to outdoor space.
Cold, wind, rain, and snow often mean chickens choose to huddle somewhere sheltered rather than explore. Over time, that lack of stimulation can lead to boredom, and bored chickens are more likely to develop problems such as feather pecking, aggression, and egg eating.
The good news is that even in the depths of winter, there's plenty you can do to keep your flock occupied.
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1. Hang a swinging vegetable.
Watching my chickens play this is my favourite pastime of all time. I call it "kill the swinging lettuce".
It's one of the simplest and most effective boredom-busters, and it's so simple. Hang a vegetable just above head height so chickens have to jump and peck at it.
A whole lettuce, cauliflower, broccoli, or corn cob works well. You can also use outer leaves from vegetables you're already preparing for meals, hung in a simple cage-style holder.
The movement keeps chickens interested for much longer than food placed on the ground.
🐥 A note from my flock: no explanation needed, just sit back and enjoy!
2. Scatter treats to encourage foraging.
Rather than offering treats in a bowl, scatter a small amount into the coop or run so chickens have to scratch and search for them.
Rotating between grains such as corn or barley, mealworms, or the occasional fish-based treat adds variety.
As with all high-protein foods, use these sparingly, especially when chickens are less active. Obesity can cause serious health problems.
3. Create a simple "jungle gym".
You don't need to buy specialist equipment. A few logs, branches, or tree stumps placed at different heights in the run give chickens something to climb on, hop between, and explore.
Commercial "chicken ladders" are often designed with parrots in mind and are rarely as appealing as natural materials.
4. Use a mirror for short-term interest.

Chickens are often fascinated by their own reflection, particularly when they're young.
An old, slightly tarnished mirror fixed securely to the coop wall can provide a surprising amount of entertainment and help redirect pecking away from flock mates.
There's no need for anything expensive: chickens aren’t fussy. Hunt around the house for a long-forgotten old mirror whose silvering has begun to tarnish, or which has a slight crack.
If you don't have one, buy inexpensively from a local hardware store.
If your flock is already showing signs of boredom-related behaviour, you may find additional ideas helpful.
I've put together an article with 25 simple, practical ways to keep chickens occupied, which you can dip into as needed.
February is often one of the wettest months of the year. Rain, melting snow, and saturated ground can quickly turn a chicken run into a mud bath.
We already know that damp conditions are bad news for chickens. Mud clinging to feet is uncomfortable and, if it hardens, can become painful. Slippery ground also increases the risk of falls, which can lead to leg injuries.
The aim here isn't perfection, it's about reducing damage and giving your flock at least one dry area.
Miss Annabelle braving the mud in my big run.5. Cover part of the run.
If you use a commercial run like Omlet's, it may be possible to add fitted covers to the roof and sides. For larger or homemade runs, a heavy-duty tarpaulin works just as well.
You don't need to cover the entire run. Even a small, sheltered corner gives chickens somewhere dry to stand and scratch. Make sure any covering is securely fixed so it doesn’t flap or blow loose in high winds.
6. Create a simple boardwalk.
Old pallets are ideal for this. Laying them across the worst of the mud creates a raised walkway which helps chickens reach drier areas without wading through deep mud.
7. Check your flock's feet regularly.
Mud can build up around toes and harden like cement. Left unchecked, this can cause pain and increase the risk of foot problems.
If you notice heavy mud build-up, it's best dealt with sooner rather than later. Learning how to safely remove mud from chicken feet before it becomes a problem will make the job much easier when you need to do it.
This entertaining video shows you how.
8. Use pine pellets.
Pine pellets (not pine shavings) are compressed sawdust commonly used for horses. When spread over muddy ground, they absorb moisture, expand, and then break down into dry, fluffy sawdust.
They can be used on their own or mixed with shavings to reduce cost. Always choose unscented pellets, and don't worry – chickens don't eat them.
If you can't find these at your local feedstore (which is likely to be cheaper) you can buy pine pellets online.
...you may find it helpful to look at this in more depth. I've written:
We last talked about deep cleaning coops back in October, when winter was just setting in. Now, several months of cold, damp weather later, it's worth taking another look.
This is especially important if your chickens haven't been able to spend much time outside. When birds are confined more than usual, coops can become unhealthy surprisingly quickly.
Daily spot-cleaning is always essential. What we're looking at here is whether a deeper clean is needed now to keep conditions safe through the rest of winter.
Bad hair day? My Polish bantam, Kris, tries to shelter from the rain but often gets caught out!9. Assess the air quality in your coop.
If you notice a strong smell of ammonia when you open the door, it's a clear sign the coop needs attention. Ammonia build-up can damage chickens' respiratory systems and should not be ignored.
Is it smelling of ammonia? That's a sure sign it needs another deep clean.
10. Check high contact areas like roosting bars, nest boxes and walls.
If they're heavily soiled, scrape them clean now. Chickens spend many hours in contact with these surfaces, and hygiene here really matters.
11. Decide whether a complete clean-out is needed.
Even though spring is approaching, there will still be weeks of poor weather ahead. If bedding is damp, compacted, or smelly, a full clean-out is often the best option rather than trying to limp through to warmer days.
12. Disinfect equipment and surfaces.
Whether you do a full clean or not, make sure nest box bedding, perches, feeders, and waterers are kept clean and disinfected.
Some people use diluted bleach, but I prefer Apple Cider Vinegar. Diluted with an equal amount of water, it works well for routine cleaning. If the coop is particularly dirty, a dedicated poultry-safe disinfectant may be needed to clean down all surfaces thoroughly.
By February, many flocks are producing far fewer eggs than they did in the autumn, and some hens may not be laying at all. This slowdown is normal at this time of year, so when eggs are laid, it's worth taking extra care.
Cold temperatures, boredom, and long collection gaps can all lead to wasted or damaged eggs if you're not careful.
13. Collect eggs frequently, especially in colder weather.
If temperatures are below freezing, that means at least two or three times a day. Eggs left too long can freeze, crack as they expand, and become unsafe to eat.
Any egg that has cracked should be discarded. Cracked shells allow bacteria to enter, increasing the risk of foodborne illness like salmonella.
14. Prevent egg eating before it starts.
Bored chickens are far more likely to develop egg-eating habits. Eggs left in nest boxes for long periods can quickly become a focus of attention.
Once a hen starts eating eggs the behaviour is difficult to stop, so regular collection and boredom-busting activities are the best prevention.
15. Choose store eggs carefully if you need them.
If your own supply is low and you need to buy eggs, look for labels such as "free range" or "pastured" rather than "barn raised".
"Barn raised" simply means hens are kept indoors, often in crowded conditions. Pastured systems generally offer better welfare and healthier birds.
Barn raised hens - not as healthy as it sounds.16. Store eggs safely at home.
Egg storage practices vary. In Europe, eggs are usually kept at room temperature; in the US, they're typically refrigerated.
Whichever method you choose, consistency is key. I've covered the pros and cons of different egg storage methods in more detail if you'd like to read further.
February may still feel firmly rooted in winter, but spring isn't far away. Taking a little time now to prepare will make things much easier when warmer weather arrives.
This is a good month to start thinking ahead, not about planting just yet, but about getting the ground ready so it's in good condition when the time comes.
17. Improve soil with organic matter.
Whatever type of soil you have, adding organic matter now will help improve structure and fertility.
Well-rotted manure (ask at your local stables or farm!) or compost can be dug in to enrich the soil. Lifting and turning the ground also introduces air, which supports the beneficial microorganisms that help plants thrive.
18. Help cold soil warm up.
Heavy soils, especially clay, can take a long time to warm in spring (ask me how I know!).
Covering prepared ground with plastic helps retain heat and encourages the soil to warm more quickly. For clay soils, cloches work better than solid sheets, as they allow excess moisture to escape and prevent the ground becoming waterlogged.
19. Leave covers in place for at several weeks.
Aim to leave coverings on the soil for at least four weeks, six if possiblen. When you remove them, you'll usually find fewer weeds and soil that's much easier to work with.
At that point, you'll be ready to plant when conditions allow.
20. Make a compost bin!
If you don't already have a compost bin, February is a good time to create one.
A simple bin made from pallets works well and costs very little. Leaving a small gap at the bottom allows chickens to help themselves by scratching through garden waste, which is a great boredom-buster in warmer months.
The compost produced will repay you later by improving soil fertility for the plants you'll be growing to supplement your chickens' diet.
🐥 A note from my flock: I created a simple compost bin by wiring together four pallets. In the summer it gives my flock many happy hours of digging for bugs amongst the grass cuttings and the straw from their coop. And in autumn and winter, rootling among the windfalls and and over-ripe fruit is a great boredom booster!
Three of my Red Stars beat the rest of the flock to the goodies in my "designer" pallet compost bin!